Standedge Tunnel

Great chaperone Fred. Over 10,000 tunnel trips, that’s getting on for three years underground

A steam train blew past; we worked our way through nine tortuous early morning locks to reach the highest point on the canal network. Took our place behind two other boats booked for the Standedge Tunnel.

Not long before the measuring sticks and gauges were slapped under, over and up the side of the boat in front – looking much slimmer than ours we figured if that didn’t get in we may as well turn back there and then. Lots of head scratching, chin rubbing and second opinions later the boat in question had failed the crucial stats test,  it’s chance of passage came down to how many barrels of water could be crammed on the bow. Despite numerous pre-booking measures we began to doubt ourselves, relieved  to get a unanimous thumbs up.

Boat number one disappeared, followed by a forty five minute fume clearing wait. Cratch cover removed, planks and poles inside and nav lights unscrewed, the boat was stripped and ready to go. Hard hats, fluorescent jackets, buoyancy aids, fire extinguishers, radio, oxygen monitor, carbon monoxide alarm and the all important chaperone on-board we made our way through the very understated tunnel mouth.

Like Alice falling down the rabbit hole, the tunnel comes in waves: ornate brick work with intricate patterns; rough mill stone cuttings; reinforced red brick arches; narrow channels of moon smooth rock, pebble dash spray folds and an enormous cave room. Layers of ever changing colour, pyrite glistens and glints in the head lamp as though Damien Hirst has been busy with For The God Of Love injections. After an unbelievably narrow, low, crooked pure rock section requiring throttle on/off and tillering to achieve movement with little speed we arrived at a safety check platform where our chaperone sent a ‘transit update’ above ground. Time for a driver swap, Nick got to relax on the bow for the remainder of the journey after a great damage free navigation and I got a go. Trains rushing through the hill, cause pressure to drops, producing condensation and enveloping the boat in mist.

Two hours of darkness makes the murkiest of days seem blinding. Emerging to a café crowd we were presented with our Standedge Tunnel Certificates, oh yay! Walked across the hills then back for some post rocky ride boat re-assembling.

The Standedge Tunnel seems a barely whispered Waterway Wonder. Heavy on the lock work but worth every windlass turn, breath taking scenery with an unparalleled ride at the top.

Standedge Stats: 198m above sea level, 5208m long and 196m below ground, making it the highest, longest and deepest in Britain. 17 years of blasting and digging. Officially opened 4^th April 1811. More than 50 men recorded to have died during construction. Most common cargo: lime. Most unusual: horse manure. Originally method of transit: legging, ouch.