Sleeping with the port-hole out means daylight in the bedroom, which means being woken as the sun comes up. So we were up pretty early, it was boiling hot and Nick was feeling the queasy consequences of his Stalyvegas dip.
Three miles soon passed before arriving at the bottom of the Marple flight. I’d remembered the paddles as arm jammers but we must have toughened during our stint up north as they came in just on the stiff side of okay. A few boats coming down bought some much needed water. By the top of the flight we’d thrown a spanner in the works of some Cheshire ring plans, having broken news of the Ashton stoppage to a few boaters.
Under the bridge and onto the Macclesfield, boats suddenly appeared all over the place, bridges needed to be treated as two-way streets again, it seems a long time since that has happened. Higher Poynton was practically chock so it was lucky to turn into one of the very last moorings. Breezy as usual up here, with the doors wide open the boat has been like a fan assisted oven – payback time for condensation months. Happy days.
Nick reached an all time high for narrowboat showers in a day. There was the usual morning shower, another when lock work got too hot and the pre-barbecue shower. Oh yes, and the after falling in the canal shower. Right in. Head under.
It had seemed odd when he leapt off, windlass in-hand declaring ‘Let’s do Stalyvegas!’ Seconds later he’d done it in style. A spectacular fall, more in its simplicity than anything else. Used to Murk launching himself at water just lately, I looked up at what seemed a simple walk of the wall. For the tinsiest moment I smiled figuring, ‘Huh, Nick jumped in,’ before realising it was very very unlikely he’d do that. Helped out by a sweet passer-by, he was re-showered and back out on the paddles in no time. At least the dip was top side of Stalybridge, the water gets muckier as the town gathers pace.
No two ways about it, the last (or first depending how you tackle it) day of the Huddersfield Narrow is quite a tough one. Locks are stiff and take time but more than half the trip is rural and bursting with greenery. Stalybridge visitor moorings were empty despite the town being a hive of mid-summer activity. We moved on through Portland Basin, where having spoken to a Canal and River Trust area manager further up the canal, we reluctantly turned left onto the Peak Forest. The air stayed warm as the sun began to set, barbecue lit, we motored on away from the Ribble Link route – it can wait and so can we.
It was nice to wake up to the roof cracking in the heat. The drop down to Uppermill is packed with views, a few boats moving up for their tunnel bookings meant a couple of locks in our favour but left long they soon leak empty. The waterpoint is tucked next to an old wool warehouse, now home to Huddersfield Canal Society, tank filled we finished the last few locks into Uppermill. Moorings are hopeless in terms of the solar panel but boats bobbing about in dappled sunshine make for a pretty place to stay. The town centre is no distance away and after carting back a sack of dog food we headed out again to stock the fridge. Still unsure where tomorrow will end up as there’s been no update on the Ashton stoppage yet.
All walked out from the last few days but the moors are impossible to ignore when they won’t be outside the window for much longer. It was another steep climb to Pots and Pans, then a beautiful evening walk in the sunshine above Dovestone reservoir.
Diggle end of the Standedge Tunnel has delivered some crazy weather. With leaden skies, lightning cracks and rolling thunder the moors have looked dark and menacing. There was walking out there so we anoracked up. Torrential rain meant a quiet hike down to Uppermill yesterday where we trudged through Java in our wellies before steaming under patio heaters with birthday Pimms, Murk there too…as always.
Squelching off again this morning, up past the Diggle Hotel we could see where we needed to be and it was pretty much straight up the side of a craggy hill come mountain. The footpath soon fizzled out and realising we were somewhere we probably shouldn’t have been we carried on. By the end of the semi-treacherous, free-fall boulder climb we were at a chilly height where bilberries are king. Saddleworth moors screamed vast and remote as we poked our way along rugged tracks, discovering gigantic walls of rock and dodging huge holes below the heather.
Clueless, we wandered the wilderness before checking for the unlikely possibility of a Geocache nearby in the hope it might set us back on track. Sure enough, there it was and after crossing a final boggy patch we arrived at Sykes Pillar, despite standing 1489ft above sea level, arriving at the trig felt like landing right back in civilisation. The remainder was a doddle – a few miles along the top of the moors along to Pots and Pans then down to find ourselves two villages from where the boat was moored.
Very quiet up here, just one boat has passed by all weekend.
The stretch from Slaithwaite to Marsden is spectacular as the moors rise all around. Sitting in the last but one lock before Marsden, a car stopped and a lady appeared with her camera, explaining she’d seen us on the river in York and was pretty surprised to catch us in her home village too. It was lovely to receive Christine’s e-mail as we hardly ever get a photo of us on the boat together.
After mooring in Marsden, we untied, pulled back, moored again, re-shuffled – moored again and again. Nick eventually gave up and sat staring at the fuzzy television screen in complete shock, he flashed a disbelieving glance at the no service notice on the phone. ‘We’re going to have to talk.’ he muttered. So we did for a while, and then we walked down the hill into the town, Murk enjoyed his retro narrowboating experience as it involved splashing about in the river at a time he’d usually be snooring.
One night was fine, but by the following morning the entertainment plan was in place - raid the charity shops of any dvd that sounded remotely watchable. After a charity shop swoop we walked along an old pack horse trail leading up onto the moors. The views were breathtaking and dropping back into the village it was quite bonkers to find a few people saying they’d seen us on the local Facebook page, Christine had mentioned adding the photos but not being Facebookers ourselves we’d understimated the Facebook force.
Trip boats done for the day we moved upto the tunnel entrance where Nick deconstructed any sticky out bits of the boat in readiness for our tunnel trip. With drinks poured and the sun shining things couldn’t have got much better – and then they did. A fire engine rolled in for a bit of training. ‘Hello, we’ve seen you on facebook… Oh my. Cups of tea went down well, I was up in the air when a much much better idea occurred to the men in uniform. ‘You’re from Brighton, this’ll be right up your street, you’ll love it,’ they decided whipping Nick of his feet. Priceless. He was begging for it.
We were stranglely sorry to head into the tunnel, Marsden had been brilliant fun - a beautiful place with great friendly people.
Tunnel take two was no less incredible than first time round. The longest, deepest, highest tunnel on the network it blows any other out the water - there’s no going back, the rest become merely big bridges. First boat through this morning, the air was clear and the safety shadow was in place meaning we just slowed at the railway cross passage to check-in before getting the all clear to press on. At 3.25 miles long and over 200 years old the past hangs heavy in the air. Typical cargos included wool, coal and horse manure. The coal toll was higher than that for manure, meaning boats were often packed with two-thirds coal then topped off with manure – the scam was finally rumbled and one lucky person got the task of digging down into each load of manure to check for hidden coal, that person also got to walk the boaters horses over the hill - there and back twice a day, a total of around 13 miles…and that boy was just twelve years old.
Moored and put back together we left the boat to walk one of the old turnpike roads back over the hill to Marsden…and back.
It took until July 15th to remove the last of the window film, lazy boy views are clearer now. After a quick water stop, hoover and dash for forgotten food we began the climb out of Huddersfield. Locks are back to narrow which makes for an easy life. Under ground, over ground – we wormed our way through the maze of oddly designed bridges, tunnels and lock landings. The first few took a while and then we began to get into the swing of it.
For the most part today’s backdrop was dilapidated mills with a few renovations along the way. Entering one lock a body flew over the boat, followed by another. After negotiating a flight path away form the solar panel the camera came out. Not sure it was the reaction they were hoping for but after a few, ‘Missed its, start again please,’ and by the time Nick had banged on about how ‘When he was younger he’d have jumped it length ways…’ they were more than happy to be on their way. There was one final question, ‘How do we flood a pound?’ Very disappointed with news of overflow sluices and completely disinterested in draining one, they shrugged ‘We just untie boats if the people are knobs.’ And off they went. A few more tow path hangers hung about today but its seems there’s nothing like a southern accent to get them laughing, one long vowel Slaithwaite and they’re putty in your hands.
Water levels are down and creeping our way through one especially low pound we got talking to a Canal and River Trust guy who broke the news that the stoppage caused by some numpty smacking into a gate on the Ashton might not be finished until the date of our Ribble Link crossing. Oh. So our summer might be about to change course. We’ll be stopping well above Portland Basin to discover our fate.
There was time for a quick look round Slaithwaite this evening – many of the canal scenes in Last of The Summer Wine were filmed here.
Ramming and shoving like mad we still couldn’t cram the boat into Lock 6 of the Huddersfield Broad without taking a fender off. In what seemed like no time quite a gathering had appeared, slightly disappointed to realise nothing catastrophic was going down they happily hung around, chipping in with helpful suggestions.
It seems the more chaotic the arrival, the more people you get to know. Finally tied up we’d talked to pretty much everyone moored in Huddersfield. With space tight, I was sent on to pace out the mooring, after a bit of discussion with the guy on the boat opposite I waved Nick on – it was a slightly awkward wave as deep down I knew my paces had been on the short, hopeful, side. Needless to say we didn’t fit and spent the next few hours wedged at an angle, hanging out across the boat behind, creating a bit of a water block until our neighbours finally came home. Whilst moaning about the effect moving might have on his tv reception the guy shuffled his boat along a bit. Discovering we were both Severn Valley, and establishing neither of us had been unfortunate victims of the Severn Valley collapse, we climbed inside to compare and contrast, during which time he mellowed after discovering he still had a picture on the screen.
From Huddersfield bus station we took to a speedy morning trip across the moors. Inside The National Coal Mining Museum at Caphouse Colliery, all kitted out with hard hats and lamps we clambered inside the cage and dropped 450ft underground. For almost two hours our group was taken through the history of mining, shown machinery, plunged into total darkness and given a fascinating tour of the coal face by an ex-collier who worked his last day of mining last March - 43 years without much daylight. Phones, battery watches, cameras, lighters, key fobs are all contraband for fear of explosions, so what lay below stayed that way with no photos rising up to the surface.
Back on the move in the morning, some hardcore lock work ahead - 8 miles, 41 locks.